Yesterday I woke early, packing everything either wet from the night before or the morning’s dew. An older gentleman who had hiked up the trail earlier in the morning sat with me as I packed, asking questions about cycle touring.
When he wandered off to meet a friend, I wandered over to check on Tim. Tim packed up and cycled out with me. He planned to turn off the trail in a few miles to head home towards Rochester (where I’d been the week before). When he stopped for water, I headed on.
I ran into (? Oh shoot, I’ve forgotten his name, we’ll say Jason) navigating our way through a narrow trail section in town). He was also riding to Ohiopyle, intending to then turn around for home. All part of his training to get faster, and cycle the Great Divide trail out west.
We ended up riding together all the way to Ohiopyle. He’s interested in cycling in Europe. He was great company. Given his goal was riding that section faster each time, he sacrificed that goal to ride with me. At the same time, he rode a slightly faster pace which made the day pass quickly.
I had planned to ride through Ohiopyle to Confluence, another 11 miles. Looking at the forecast, continuing to Confluence I’d just beat the rain. Best case. Instead I set up camp at Ohiopyle State Park (where the trail guide really does mean access to the camping area is steep!). An early stop meant hanging everything up to air out before the storm.
I then made the classic mistake of leaving everything out while I took a shower. It was a calculated risk so I could get everything dry and packed before the storm. Indeed, I managed to get everything packed away just before the first waves of thunder rolled in. Rain poured down most of the night.
After skidding back down the steep trail and wandering about the town in the morning, I left Ohiopyle. The forecast was only the high 60s!
Riding along, Fred cycled up behind me to ask if I’d like company while he ate lunch. He’s riding the trail unloaded, meeting his wife at the end of each day. Again with company, I rode at a faster pace. He rode with me long after finishing his mobile lunch. We started talking about touring, and he asked if I’d ever cycled in Ireland. I laughed out loud. Eventually he went zooming off, and I missed his company.
All day the skies suggested rain. The occasional few drops I ignored. When rain started with intent I was of course in the middle of nowhere. I first encountered Erica and Amanda as they cycled past as I sheltered beneath a tree. When the rain relented I continued onward. When the rain’s intensity increased I stopped at a shelter where the two of them had taken cover.
We rode together the rest of the day, across the Continental Divide and the Mason-Dixon line, and into Frostburg.
A deep alien hum surrounded us after crossing the Continental Divide. We had entered the land of the cicada.
At the beginning of the day I had contemplated riding all the way to Cumberland (the end of the GAP and beginning of the C&O). With the repeated rains, and more importantly that the YMCA camping in Cumberland didn’t offer power or showers, I decided to stop in Frostburg at the campground/hostel. My phone and backup battery both low on power, I didn’t want to start the C&O low on power. I’ve carried this larger battery all this way so I’d have power on the C&O; foolish to be low on power before I start!
I’d also been feeling like I needed to “make up” the time I lost by stopping at Ohiopyle at 80 km. Like every trip about this point, I realized I don’t need to hurry.
At the campground in Frostburg you have to push your bicycle up a steep series of ramps to reach the camping area. With no place for their hammocks, Erica and Amanda instead chose the hostel.
I went out to dinner with Erica and Amanda, both IT people (one a new member of the Space Force!). They’re from Nebraska, on their first tour. But it doesn’t sound like their last.
100 km today. Tomorrow will start out fast, the last of the core descent from the Continental Divide.